October 29, 2008 Email from Mark

October 25, Saturday
Spent the day in Elizabeth City catching the sights. Weather called for some winds on the nose so made no sense fighting it and burning a lot of gas. Walked through town on a somewhat zig-zag route until the accumulated directions to the Laundromat from various local sources allowed me to get that one chore complete. Some friends from St. Mary’s called and were in the area. I dinghied (is that a verb?) back to the Natie M and unloaded the laundry, and grabbed the computer before the forecasted rain showed up. As I set out to return to shore, I thought to myself that I should check the level of gas in the outboard. Naw, surely I have enough of to make it back to shore and I can fill it there. Murphy’s Law was in full effect, motor of course sputtered out exactly halfway between boat and shore. Got my exercise for the day rowing in. My friends and I rendezvoused and from the comfortable tables at the coffee shop enjoyed the homecoming parade. After my friends left I walked up to the Albemarle Maritime museum and did the tour including narrative presentations by the local high school students. The student depicting the pirate Ann Bonny was especially good though I would have slapped some of the hyperactive kids in the front row with my saber for effect. Very nice museum with lots of artifacts displays. I especially liked the Blackbeard the pirate display (starting to see a trend?) with recently recovered artifacts including a 6 pound cannon recently raised from what is believed to be the wreck of Queen Annes Revenge. Walked around a bit and then with my computer returned to the coffee shop which also offered an excellent selection of micro brews, sat at the bar and got on the net. As I was leaving to return to the dinghy, ran into one of the Canadian crew who asked if I wanted to join them for a movie. Excellent restored old movie theater, with tables and waiters serving drinks and food. We watched a violent very dramatic movie, though very good, I think may have traumatized the Canadians, hell, I had some trouble with some of the scenes. (Pride and glory, Natie M. 4 star rating). Back to the Natie M in a very dark dinghy ride the ½ mile to my anchorage.

October 26, 2008
Up and under way at 0720 and made the scheduled bridge raising at Elizabeth City Bridge at 0730 and along with a bunch of other snow birds headed south. The forcasted wind was N at 15-20 knots and it came close that morning. Had a great jibe down the Pasquotank River to Abemarle Sound and the Alligator River. Nice sailing day, but with the wind dying in the afternoon, it was a slow sail to the anchorage at the north inlet to the Alligator River/ Pungo River Canal at sunset. Beautiful anchorage, no sign of humanity, except of course the anchored fiberglass around me.

October 27, 2008
Awakened at 0430 by the sound of very large diesel engines. Poked my head out the hatch and saw two Tugs with there lights and spot lights blazing. The spot lights on the tugs lit up the anchored boats one by one, and threaded its way between them. Very big boats but never came near, I still stayed up to make sure, with my radio on. Got a couple more hours of sleep and before sunrise was up and getting ready to get underway. Entered the canal at 0730. The canal was beautiful with the extensive wetlands to either shore and no signs of anything human made, other than the very straight water filled ditch. Saw numerous Bald eagles, woodpeckers and hawks among the tall pines and bald cypress. It was especially beautiful with the intermittent fog wafting across the waterway. Arrived at Snode Creek and anchored as the forecasted cold front moved in with cold rain and winds. Turned in and listened to the World Series on the short wave. Second day of no cell phone coverage.

October 28, 2008
Did the rest of the canal to the Neuse River. Started to see docks with big fishing boats tied up. Stopped at one of the docks and talked awhile with the man running the gas pumps. RA Mayo Co. is a fish wholesaler with a boat chandlery attached, though I doubt they call it by the yotty label. Inside it had the air of an old country store with a three or four retired fisherman sitting around the pot belly stove. Lots of boat stuff, real boat stuff, not the fancy trinkets you see at West marine. Paid for my gas, some work gloves (which function as my windlass) and an antique Almond Joy candy bar. Emerging into the Neuse River was in for a ride. The 20-25 kt west winds were a heck of a sail. Averaged 6 knots plus in a choppy wet reach down river. After about 6 hours of that dowsing was ready for some calm motoring to Beufort, NC at the end of Adams Creek Canal. Started to see more houses and more expensive real estate as I approached. Regretted leaving the swamps, really enjoyed the dismal swamp the wetlands to the south though. Its friggin cold, especially in the morning, need to continue reducing the latitude. About 5 miles inland from Beufort saw a pod of Dolphin. Always a good sign. Arrived in a stiff west wind to Town Creek on the inland side of Beufort. Set anchor and turned in. Checked in with the cell phone which now has a signal. Back in civilization.

October 29, 2008
Wind still blowing stiff out of the West. Gonna check the weather before taking off, either offshore or continue down to Cape Fear. Beaufort has a lot of history, and pretty seaport town, and very boater friendly. Beufort is also the site where Blackbeard and his crew abandoned his ship the Queen Annes Revenge just outside of the inlet after running aground just offshore. Will decide tonight or tomorrow morning before heading south again. In the meantime, vessel and crew in good shape and high spirits.